Thursday, May 22, 2014

wabi-sabi wearables











the second best thing about aesop (after the gorgeous products) is the muslin bag they come in - ideal for storage of necessary miscellany

Want to know a secret? Daniel is the resident hand-sewer in our house; I can't even sew on a button - despicable, I know. Perhaps what is most shocking about this admission is that I come from a long line of crafty types; knitters, seamstresses and sewers brimming with passion and skill. When I was younger I didn't think sewing was relevant or necessary - now I'm determined to learn the basics.

This year I have spent a little time, each week, simplifying my wardrobe. It's a work in progress and to be honest, I don't think I'll ever reach a point of completion. As I've sorted I've made a pile of clothes that require repairs - there's missing buttons, small tears, moth-made holes (despite the lavender, red-cedar, thyme and rosemary wardrobe concoction) and general de-pilling that needs to be seen to. It's become pretty obvious to me that all the items that need repairing are ones I've had for a good while. They were considered purchases that cost me significant money and they are still relevant today - they've maintained their shape, style and aesthetic appeal.

I read The rise of mending: how Britain learned to repair clothes again* shortly after adding new items to my aforementioned mending pile. Repairing clothes, once a lost art, is experiencing a renaissance as the economic crisis, environmental awareness and hipster-mentality inspires a new/old way of dressing. There's even a name for the people who fix and mend - nouveau stitchers! And they admit that an increasing number of people want to be less disposable; they'll buy quality with the intention of mending it in the future - wabi-sabi wearables.

As I simplify my wardrobe, pass my mending pile onto my mum (with the intention of learning some hand-stitching skills myself - one day) and edit to create a beautiful and practical variety of clothes, I've been compiling a list of essentials that new purchases must adhere to. They include:

  • natural fibres
  • flattering fit
  • ideally fair-trade and organic
  • colours that blend with my existing wardrobe - black, white, grey, blue, 
  • classic styles that defy trends
  • practical cuts that allow me to run after fast toddlers
  • not too many stripes (but you can never have enough stripes....but stripes on stripes - a no no)
  • created by small business, not big brands.

When it comes to the children's clothes I always opt for elastic or adjustable waists, billowy smock-like tops, long pants that can be rolled at the hem when legs grow too long and dresses that can become tops. 

I know a lot of my readers are talented sewers...I'd love to know how often you fix clothes and what it actually feels like to make something new again. Incredibly satisfying, I imagine. And if you're like me, do you pass your worn clothes onto a seamstress?

*Thanks to Michelle for sharing the article with me. 


29 COMMENTS

  1. My first impression upon seeing the opening image of this post was "Oh Bless, even her notions collection is cute, organised and photogenic!" Mine most definitely is not! But it does the job. We are menders... or should I say 'aspiring menders'! Our mending pile is an entity all of it's our and Chilli often grumbles about something that has been lost in the mending pile that she's now grown out of! I need Nanny to visit more often because when she does that's when our mending pile gets combatted. I mend things at the eleventh hour such as my woollen socks that sat in there for around 9 months (they could have grown their own pair of baby socks in that time!) that I've just as the weather cools this past few weeks - pulled them out and darned the hole in the heel - good as new now.

    I'm absolutely on the same page as you. Before we headed South, I did a big wardrobe overhaul and refined down to basics and easy mix-n-match items. I don't miss a single thing. And I am still ruthless with my wardrobe; if it becomes misshapen, thread bare beyond mending or no longer fits due to having accidentally wound up in the dryer (or me having accidentally eaten too many delicious organic baked goods through the Winter) - then it finds a new appreciating home or gets up-cycled into a shed/craft rag, tomato plant tie or into the fabric cupboard to be re-invented one day. For us it's definitely quality over quantity. I'd rather spend more on individual items for mindfully produced, healthy clothing that the children and ourselves wear until they're threadbare. Our clothing is absolutely always natural fibres, preferably organic - especially for the children and most definitely for undergarments.

    I'll know what to knit you next out of my last-minute knitted gifts book now - but it won't be anytime soon... A friend is still waiting for hers from her birthday last June! My knitting goes at the same pace as my mending... slowly! ;)

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    1. I adore your honesty. Elke. I buy Nature Baby undergarments for Poet - in their natural cream colour way - love! x

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    2. Oh Elke, by far the worlds best name for any lady (Olive would be a close second).

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    3. I LOVE the name Olive! Had Marlin been a girl he would have most likely ended up an Olive! I daydreamed that the children could open their own restaurant one day called 'The Chilli Olive'. I guess 'Chilli and Marlin' is still a pretty cool restaurant name! ;)

      I haven't looked at Nature Baby for undergarments as yet, but will have to - that jumper Chilli received in the Haiku package for Marlin from Nature Baby was just gorgeous. I'm so sad he's grown out of it now, it was one of my favourite baby items - definitely going in the space bag for the children's children. YES - I do THAT!!!! ;)

      We mostly buy organic cotton undergarments from Blessed Earth because their ridiculously cheap sale prices are hard to ignore. This season in my hunt for organic woollen and silk thermals I was overjoyed to stumble upon Lana Bambini who carry a lot of wonderful Winter wear suitable for our climate. They are in the UK but 10pound shipping really is quite reasonable when I'm normally used to paying exorbitant postage fees from the US to OZ for hard to find items in Australia.

      Happy soon to be Winter xxxx Oh - winter, Poet must be creeping up to another birthday is she? Goodness...

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    4. MARLIN. Oh, another great one there :)

      Perhaps more babies are needed? Oh wait, maybe not! ;)

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  2. Hey Jodi, we are big believers in reusing, mending etc in our household. I am not a super talented seamstress but I am good enough to mend and to make simple clothing. I like to reuse fabric from clothing I have finished with to make new clothes for the girls.

    There's not a lot I do get rid of, but I still have things from before I became a mother that are in beautiful condition that no longer fit (darn post-childbirth breasts and hips!)

    I also knit new things for the whole family. We op-shop and when we buy new it is always ethically made.

    I think it's super important to always buy ethically. There is simply no need for someone else to suffer for our fashion choices. It's something I feel very strongly about and I have a great deal of shame for unethical purchases I have made in the past. I blogged about it recently and happily changed the perspective of some people!

    I do roll my eyes a little at the term 'nouveau stitchers', I mean, really? Does everything have to drip with pretension these days?

    Anyway, great post and good luck learning to mend! You'll definitely be satisfied.

    Linda. x

    P.S. I use my big Aesop bags to take to the co-op and farmers' market for loose produce, flour etc... they're a perfect size!

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    1. hehe, I too balked at the "nouveau stitchers" reference. I doubt anyone would actually refer to themselves as one....surely not!

      Your way of "wearing" is inspiring and I especially love that you've given me a great use for my large aesop bags! x

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  3. When you wear vintage clothes as everyday clothes, like I do, you need to become an accomplished mender. But I have to admit to having a craft cupboard stuffed with clothes to mend they tend to wallow in there for quite some time. For the rips, revisions and repairs that are beyond me I send them to my seamstress (again a complete necessity when you wear 50 year old clothes like any other).
    I've even held Make Do and Mend It days where my girlfriends bring some of their 'to be fixed' pile to my house and we drink tea, sew and share our fix it knowledge (I'll invite you next time if you'd like)

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    1. I love your Make Do and Mend idea, Astred! I'll definitely be trying to organise one around my area soon!

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    2. Does your seamstress have an understanding and appreciation of vintage, too? Make Do and Mend It days sound brilliant! x

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    3. Yes, it's her speciality. She even makes vintage outfits from original patterns and fabric which is very exciting but rather costly if you get carried away ;)

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    4. Oh I LOVE the idea of your 'Make Do and Mend It' days...

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  4. I have recently purchased a sewing machine, my first ever! I have no idea how to use it yet.....im hoping to get the hang of it pretty quickly as I have a huge box of "rags" which really are just clothes that need mending instead of replacing. Its a new habit im hoping to get into. I have recently culled my wardrobe right back, I removed alot of my pre children clothes, I will never be a size 8 again and I dont care to keep up with fashion like I used to. That probably has alot to do with not having to head into a corporate office in the city anymore, I just dont need such serious clothes in my life teehee :-) one thing I have learnt that I love is to still utilise my summer dresses in winter with leggings and merino tops, thankyou to em over at beetleshack. Genius!!! Where have I been!!! Haha

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  5. Guess what? Rick is also the resident sewer/mender in our family...
    I have completely rebuilt my wardrobe this year having almost purged my entire wardrobe at the end of last. The intention is for these new clothes to see me through till I'm forty at least!
    Ronnie xo

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    1. Oh, Ronnie - what did you buy? I'm intrigued! x

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    2. I will share soon, I promise!
      Ronnie xo

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  6. I have recently started to edit my wardrobe and become mindful of what I allow in it. I cut out over 50% of my clothes I would say and I really don't miss anything. I completely agree with your list, but I'll add something that on of my uni lectures told us when I was studying teaching "You shouldn't be able to see up it, down it or through it"
    Kate

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  7. My Mother would staple our hems up. So I became a self taught sewer. But for years did not touch my machine. Then I had Jarvis and opted not to return to work for two years. So I made a deal with myself, I would not buy myself a single new garment for two years. This includes new to me, as in second hand garments. The only exception was I could make what ever I wanted from my fabric stash. Plus where ever I could I would either buy second hand or make Jarvis's clothes.
    Slowly slowly I am now selling my garments to others. At first I just gave them away. Now for every item I sell I make a child's pair of PJs to give away to charity.

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  8. I'm down with all of that. Currently wearing *stripes* (said in a whisper) and denim. I suspect we may be twins some days.

    x

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  9. It seems you have a much lovelier selection of organic, simple clothing for yourself and babes in Australia than we do here in the US. I would love to dress in al natural and organic fibers in semi neutral colors, but it is almost impossible to find here. I haven't gotten into buying vintage clothing and mending yet, but I've been mulling it around in my brain. I like to buy organic textiles and repurpose them into dresses from little girls though. It's so much cheaper than buying vintage pieces online or from a local shop!

    P.S. If any of your American readers are in the know on this, I would love some rec's!

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    1. Hi Andrea, from the US I really like sweetwilliamltd.com - they stock a range of ethical/fair trade/organic brands for kids. I also love goatmilknyc.com for basics and adore mabokids.com for classic styles. Ace&Jig recently launched a kids range - voluminous shapes and beautiful cotton fabrics x

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  10. These are great suggestions, but I struggle to find where to buy these kinds of things. Any suggestions?

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    1. Adults clothing: Kowtow, Chalky Digits, Michah, Belle and Beau, Untouched World, Starfish, Descendant Denim, Icebreaker, Kate Sylvester, Standard Issue.........

      Children's clothing: Nature Baby, Green Bean, Rata and Ruby, Earthlings, Naked Baby............


      To name a few - these are all New Zealand brands, but undoubtedly ship internationally.

      *Love this post, Jodi* xx

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    2. Adria, I adore aceandjig.com, fabrikstore.com, bohemiantraders.com, everlane.com, primoeza.bigcartel.com, belleandbeau.co.nz

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  11. I'm the big mender in our house, and there is always a little pile on the go of things that need to be hemmed/unhemmed, pockets re-stitched, buttons added/changed, etc. I opt to do most things by hand over using my machine (easier to put away when little ones want in on the action).
    Andrea: there are a ton of options here in the States! We are partial to Kate Quinn Organics, Two Crows For Joy, Sage Creek Organics, the Ultimate Green Store ... all great options for kids and more. Don't forget American Apparel, even though they are widely popular, is made right here in Los Angeles -- ethical, sweatshop-free and paying excellent wages. While not my favourite fashion aesthetic overall, they do make some good basics for everyone that are easy to mix in your wardrobe.

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  12. This is a subject after my own heart! From simplifying your wardrobe to the list of essentials for new purchases to making your own clothes. But strangely enough, I don't do much mending. Most of it has to do with the fact that I don't really own any high quality clothing that actually can be made as new. I'm kind of wearing out all my old clothes and not buying anything until I can afford good quality. But mostly I aim to make myself more clothing, if I can just get myself to take the time. I know it must sound daunting if you don't have experience with sewing, but a lot of my favorite silhouettes are quite easy to sew (another perk of the minimalist look we're seeing so much of these days)! If you ever find yourself wanting to learn, I can share my favorite simple patterns with you, if you'd like. xoi

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  13. i adore mending from an aesthetic point of view as well! Patchwork and darning is as much art as it is practicality I think. i started a mending board on pinterest to collect art that has mending, i adore it! I hope you enjoy the sewing Jodi, it's the way to go for sure! Here's my pinterest board if you want to have a look xxxx http://www.pinterest.com/janeg/mending/

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